Friday, March 18, 2011

Button Making Process

Textile is one of the earliest inventions of our civilization. As time passed by, fabrics got refined and many textile accessories too were invented for the comfort of using these fabrics in an effective way. As textile became a style and fashion statement from being a mere necessity, these simple accessories also got trendy. One of the good examples of such accessories is the commonly used fabric closure, the button.


Journey of Button

Buttons date back to prehistoric period when they were made from stones and bones. Gradually, they began to be made out of a variety of materials including wood, brass, pewter, gold, and silver. The buttons were first made and used in Europe. By 18th century, the button industry flourished all across Europe, and many different techniques for making buttons were developed by the artisans there. By the late 18th century, metal buttons started to be made in factories but they were a bit expensive. Although, England tried hard to stop the emigration of its die-makers, who made buttons, yet the technique spread in the other parts of the world.

By early 20th century, inexpensive buttons, made of sea shells or other natural materials in a wide range of varieties, were available and then came the plastic buttons sometime in 1930's. After World War II, almost all the buttons were made out of plastic. They could be mold cast, where plastic slugs cut from a long rod are placed in a two-part mold. The mold is then closed, and heat & pressure applied to finish the button. In yet another process of injection molding, melted plastic is forced into a mold with a button-shaped cavity. In present times, the process most commonly followed for making buttons out of plastic is that of 'die cutting from cylinder-cast polyester'

Manufacturing Process of Buttons
The basic raw materials for making buttons is polyester, a special kind of plastic, and wax. Many chemical dyes are also added to polyester to give it different colors. Chemical catalyst is also used to harden the polyester and wax. Polyester, used for making buttons, is initially in liquid form. First of all, polyester is drained from the storage tank into a stainless steel kettle. For making colored buttons, chemical dye is added. Red carbonate, carbon black and titanium are mixed for obtaining pearl like sheen similar to shell buttons, black and white colors respectively. After the dye has been mixed, the liquid polyester is poured into a metal beaker having capacity of approximately 3-gallons or 11 liters. At this stage, the chemical catalyst and liquid wax are added to the prepared mixture of polyester and the dye.

The prepared mixture is then placed into a large rotating metal cylinder made of steel and lined with chrome. The cylinder is typically 2 feet long and 4 feet in diameter. The cylinder lie on its sides on rollers which rotate the drums at about 250 rotations per minute. The polyester mixture is slowly poured into the rotating interior of the cylinder. The centrifugal force of the rotation causes the polyester solution to spread, lining the drum with an even sheet. When thicker buttons are needed, greater amount of polyester is used while less polyester is used for making thinner buttons. A 2-inch lip around the ends of the cylinder prevents the polyester solution from leaking out.◦As a result of reaction with the chemical catalyst, polyester, rotating in the cylinder, begins to harden. As the wax rises to the top of the sheet, and also sinks to the bottom, the hardening polyester is held between two layers of wax. After about 20 minutes of rotation, the polyester sheet changes from its liquid state to a crumbly solid sheet having consistency of stale cheese.

◦After the hardened sheet of polyester is made, it is cut and rolled out of the cylinder onto a wooden tube. Although, it is still delicate, wax helps in removing the sheet without much effort. Top layer of the wax is then peeled off, and the sheet is placed into a blanking machine

The blanking machine moves the polyester sheet on a conveyor belt and as the sheet passes along the belt, circular shaped cutting dies, made of steel, descend over it and punch out button-sized circles, known as blanks. Although, standard size of buttons is specified and the dies are prepared accordingly, dies with different diameters according to the requirements can also be made and loaded into the blanking machine. After the blanks are cut, they fall into a chute, and the punched out polyester sheet rolls beneath the chute. This whole process of cutting the sheets take about 2-4 minutes, depending upon the size of the buttons being made.

As the blanks are still hot, a cooling process, having hot and cold baths, follows. The blanks are placed into a nylon bag directly from the chute. The bag is placed into a tank of salt water, which is heated at 110°C, wherein the bag floats for about 15 minutes. As the water slowly cools, the polyester blanks get hardened. Then the nylon bag is transferred to a cold water tank, where the blanks reach their final state of hardness. Then the blanks are dried in a centrifugal drying machine, which spins them in a wire mesh basket.

◦The final stage of button making involves designing the buttons according to the buttons suppliers or garment companies specifications. Different cutting tools are used for making different shaped buttons such as beveled edge, or a slightly concave button. The cutting tool is placed in the cutting machine and the buttons are poured into a hopper at the top of the machine. The blanks fall into a holder where they are clamped tightly and moved toward the cutting tool. The spinning blade comes out and cuts the button and then retracts. Then the buttons moves beneath a set of drills, which make the holes in them. The design specification allows two or four holes, and also the diameter of the holes and the distance between them. After the holes are made, the buttons are sucked by vacuum out of the holder and into a box beneath the machine. Hundreds of buttons are made in a minute, though the number varies according to the size of buttons and complexity of the design.

The buttons thus created have rough or sharp edges, scratches, and tool marks and therefore need finishing process. They are Kept into hexagonal tumbling drums, that contain water, abrasive material, and a foaming agent. The drums spin for about 24 hours. The buttons bounce around in the drum until they are smooth and shiny. Lastly, the buttons are washed and dried.

Different types of Tool and Die Maker Apprentice Training Course List

Basic Industrial Math
Addition and Subtraction
Multiplication and Division
Fractions, Percents, Proportions, and Angles
Metric System
Formulas
Introduction to Algebra

Practical Measurements
Linear and Distance Measurement
Bulk Measurement
Temperature Measurement
Energy, Force, and Power
Fluid Measurement

Trades Safety: Getting Started
Working Safely with Chemicals
Fire Safety
Material Handling Safety
Electrical Safety for the Trades
Working Safely with Electricity (Video)
Jobs, Companies, and the Economy: Basic Concepts for Employees
Manufacturing Processes, Part 1
Introduction to Print Reading
Dimensioning
Tolerancing and Symbols
Sectional Views and Simplified Drafting
Reading Shop Prints

Hand and Power Tools
Common Hand Tools, Part 1
Common Hand Tools, Part 2
Precision Measuring Instruments, Part 1
Electric Drilling and Grinding Tools
Power Cutting Tools
Pneumatic Hand Tools
Plumbing and Pipefitting Tools
Electricians' Tools
Tool Grinding and Sharpening
Woodworking Hand Tools
Routers, Power Planers, and Sanders
Jacks, Hoists, and Pullers
Bench Work, Part 3
Fasteners

Basic Machining Skills
Practical Shop Math, Part 1
Practical Shop Math, Part 2
Practical Shop Measurement
Safe Shop Practices
Properties and Classifications of Metals
Using Shop Drawings, Process, and Routing Sheets, Part 1
Using Shop Drawings, Process, and Routing Sheets, Part 2
Layout
Metal Cutting and Machine Tooling, Part 1
Metal Cutting and Machine Tooling, Part 2
Metal Cutting Machinery, Part 1
Metal Cutting Machinery, Part 2
Fundamentals of Grinding
CNC Machine Tool Features and Applications
Machine Shop Safety
Precision Measuring Instruments, Part 2
Precision Measuring Instruments, Part 3
Tool and Die Making
Drilling
Metal Processing
Ferrous Metals
Nonferrous Metals
Identification of Metals
Lubrication, Part 1
Lubrication, Part 2
Applied Geometry
Practical Trigonometry
Layout
Lathes, Part 1
Lathes, Part 2
Lathes, Part 3
Lathes, Part 4
Lathes, Part 5
Milling Machines, Part 1
Milling Machines, Part 2
Milling Machines, Part 3
Basic Engine Lathe (Video)
Milling: Machine Practice
Fundamentals of Grinding
Cylindrical Grinding, Part 1
Cylindrical Grinding, Part 2
Surface Grinding, Part 1
Surface Grinding, Part 2
Nontraditional Machining Technologies
Hardening and Tempering
Tool Grinding
Geometric Dimensioning and Tolerancing
Quality Concepts: Tools and Applications
Quality Control for the Technician
CNC Technology and Programming
Toolholding Systems
Milling and Tool Sharpening (Video)
Machine Sketching
Metallurgy of Iron
Metallurgy of Nonferrous Metals
Metallurgy of Steel
Metallography
Heat Treatment
Toolmaking
Gage Making
Jigs and Fixtures
Jig and Fixture Making
Dies and Die Making
Making Forging Dies
Forging Dies
Manufacturing Processes

Best Engineering Drafting Tools

Although much of today's drafting projects are completed using software, any technical drafter should have a good understanding of the different manual tools used to complete a drafting project. Many people continue to use the manual drafting process even after mastering drafting basics. The art of technical drawing is a precise one, and the tools used to complete a project are designed to create the most accurate scale model possible in the smallest space. The following outlines the best tools you can provide yourself as a prospective drafter.

Architect's Scale

The architect's scale is a three-sided ruler constructed either of plastic or aluminum. A high-quality architect's scale will offer you a larger number of fractional scales. Different fractional scales will allow you to create a larger assortment of technical drawings. Like any ruler, the architect's scale offers flat sides for straight drawing ease. Purchase an architectural scale that has been constructed of hard plastic, as the corners on aluminum models can bend if the scale gets dropped. Because of the flow of manual use, many drafters find it easier to construct drawings using an architectural scale and pencil rather than CAD, or computer-aided design, software.
Bow Compass
Bow compasses aid the drafter in creating curved lines and circles within their designs. The bow compass can be vital, as it is the only tool that can accurately draw curved lines to scale. The bow compass will have a point that stays in the middle of the circle, and another end to hold a pencil or other lead source. You can create a perfect circle with a bow compass by holding the compass' point in one position and rotating the pencil end around that fixed center. A ruler placed through both sides of the bow compass allows you to control your circle's size.
Divider
Dividers look much like bow compasses, but instead of a pencil holder or lead source, the divider has two metal points and is used to transfer measurements to a technical drawing. When applied with pressure to drafting paper, dividers can leave marks that are clearly visible upon closer inspection. A high-quality divider can be locked into place to ensure the consistency of your measurement.

Protractor
Protractors are semicircle-shaped pieces of clear plastic that help a drafter create whatever angle they need for a design. Find the center point of your protractor. It will be located on the long bottom line, usually surrounded by a tiny circle. Place that center point on your design exactly where you want your line to start. Because drafting designs are drawn to scale, the angle of the corner in real life is the same angle you will use on your protractor. Find the degree value you need on the outside of your protractor, and then make a small mark on your drawing at that location. You can then draw the line at the proper angle by lining up the flat edge of your architectural scale with both the line's beginning and your angle marking. Be careful to make sure the line you draw is still to scale.

Triangle
A triangle will help you draw a parallel or perpendicular line through another line in your drafting project. To draw a perpendicular line, simply line up the short end of your clear plastic triangle on the line you will be drawing through with the point where the lines intersect somewhere in the middle of your triangle. Place your architectural scale against the hypotenuse of your triangle, and slowly move the triangle down along the scale until the point of intersection reaches the long side of the plastic triangle. Drag your pencil along the triangle's long side to create a perfectly perpendicular intersection.

To draw a line parallel to another in your drafting project, line the long edge of the triangle up with the line you want a parallel line for, and then line your scale against the short edge of your triangle. The scale should be lined up with the line so that the line rests at the 'zero' position, or the spot where you would begin any measurement. Move your triangle down the scale, without changing its angle, and stop when the long edge of the triangle has reached the proper distance between the lines. Drag your pencil along the long edge of your triangle to complete a perfectly parallel line.